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Relationships between upper-class women and their servants had changed, becoming less intimate and more authoritarian, as the sociologist Diana Crane puts it

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The fast visual differences I use in tech discussions Bell sleeve: flare starts earlier, cuff stays open Trumpet sleeve: flare starts later, looks sharper and more fitted Bishop sleeve: volume is pushed into gathers, cuff is closed and structured Flared sleeve: could be bell or trumpet, so I always ask for a reference What changes in the pattern room Bell: needs accurate flare angle, cuff edge must hang clean Trumpet: needs controlled ease above the flare to avoid pulling Bishop: needs extra sleeve width and gathering ratio, plus cuff interfacing Flared: needs a clear spec, or bulk can drift A simple sleeve comparison table Where should the bell sleeve flare start, and how wide should the cuff be